Braving the Baobab Ledges: A Sango Conservancy Experience
“Lift your knee high toward your chest. Now push down with your foot and raise your hand up the rope.” We had practiced this movement for twenty minutes, and now it was happening for real. Slowly, I pulled myself higher up the baobab tree, pausing at intervals to rest my arms and soak in the experience. Climbing in Africa’s bush isn’t about speed—it’s about taking your time, savouring each moment.
Reaching the ledge, I was rewarded with an exceptional view, and for those brave enough, you can stay up there for hours—or even overnight. With the ledge overlooking a waterhole, all you need to do is sit silently and wait. Before long, the animals come to drink, providing a unique, bird’s-eye view of their natural behaviours.
The rest of the morning was spent on a game drive, or as I like to call it, “counting G’s” because we had seen so many giraffes by then that we lost count. Each new sighting felt like nature’s own tapestry, full of detail and grace, and somehow, the thrill never faded.
By mid-afternoon, the temperature had climbed to the 40s, and our smiles were beginning to wane. Bottled water became our best friend, and taking sips was like a ritual. We were faced with a choice: hike 800 meters to view ancient rock art or drive for an hour to reach the Save River. We unanimously chose the latter, craving some shade and hoping to spot more wildlife. The riverside was rich with animals, and the shady sandbank offered a refreshing break. I even waded into the water for a quick cool-down, though I stayed close to shore—crocodiles weren’t far from my mind!
There was so much to do, but not enough time. As we turned back toward camp—a good 40-minute drive away—I thought about my “bush wishlist.” Each trip, I hope to spot animals I haven’t seen before, and this time, a pangolin or aardvark topped my list. In the wild, nothing is guaranteed, yet I kept hoping. Though I didn’t get to see either, what happened next was even better and something I’ll never forget.
Our guide, Brendan, was exceptional. With deep knowledge, passion, and patience, he’d taken our wildlife wishlists with a lighthearted “No pressure, right?” But he ended up surprising even himself. As we headed to meet Kim, a wildlife filmmaker, Brendan suddenly hit the brakes, reversed, and said, “Rhino!” I thought I’d misheard him, so I asked, “Did you say black rhino?” Indeed, he had. Heart racing, I watched as he quietly led us off the vehicle to approach on foot.
Imagine sitting quietly, less than 50 meters away from one of Africa’s most endangered animals, in complete awe of its prehistoric beauty. I hadn’t seen a black rhino in over 20 years, and here I was, silently admiring this magnificent creature. Those 20 minutes are memories I’ll cherish for a lifetime.
“Sorry, Kim!” I thought as we finally continued on to meet Kim Wolhuter, who’d been patiently waiting at Ngongoni Pan. Kim lives in Sango with his family, spending his days forging close bonds with the animals he films. Following him to a nearby hyena den, we caught a glimpse into his world with these often misunderstood creatures. Known for their “bad reputation,” hyenas, under Kim’s lens, became complex and fascinating.
The evening ended with a spectacular bush dinner at Sango Expedition Camp, our conversation occasionally interrupted by the distant calls of lions.
Sango offers three unique safari camps in different locations on the conservancy:
- Sango Dadiso
- Sango Expeditions
- Sango Ingwe Lodge
Unique experiences include:
- Meet Kim Wolhuter as he leads you to his hyena pack; offering a one-of-a kind opportunity to witness his unparalleled ability to connect with wild animals like never before. During a private dinner, Kim shares his innovative approach to wildlife photography, discussing his ethos of refraining from feeding animals, going shoeless, and eschewing firearms to capture his distinctive images.
- Exclusive Baobab Safari, an extraordinary blend of climbing and safari atop a thousand-year-old baobab tree, observing wildlife gathered around a waterhole from a lofty vantage point.
- Rhino Conservation Weeks, 04 – 28 August 2025. Every August, we extend a special invitation to our guests to participate in our annual “Rhino Conservation Weeks.” During this period, Sango’s juvenile rhinos undergo tagging procedures enhancing their identification and monitoring by our dedicated rangers in the field.
Posted by
Claire Robinson